MIL-DTL-21115L
3.4.2 Yarn.
3.4.2.1 Wool yarn, for Type I. The wool yarn shall be spun from combed top on either the
Bradford, French, or American system. The Type I, Class 1 cloth shall consist of 2-ply yarn in
both the warp and filling. The Type I, Class 2 cloth shall consist of 2-ply yarn in the warp and
singles yarn in the filling (see 4.3.4). The Type I finished cloth shall contain not less than 95
percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4.
3.4.2.2 Polyester/wool blend yarn, for Type III. The polyester fiber and wool fiber shall be
blended and spun into a 2-ply yarn for both warp and filling for Class 1, 2, and 3 and into a 3-ply
yarn for both warp and filling for Class 4. As an alternate, the Class 2 cloth may be woven with
a singles yarn for both warp and filling (see 4.3.4). The use of laps, noils, or any other wool
manufacturing by-products is prohibited (see 4.3.2). The finished cloth shall consist of the
following fiber percentages based on the dry chloroform-extracted specimen when tested as
specified in 4.3.4.
Percentage
Minimum
Maximum
Fiber
Polyester
55
60
Wool, 64's U.S. Std (or finer)
40
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3.5 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall match the standard sample.
The color of Type I cloth shall be obtained by blending stock or top dyed wools; the color of
Type III shall be obtained by blending top dyed wool with stock, top or tow dyed polyester fibers
with the wool and polyester fibers dyed separately and then blended. Pigmented fibers may be
used on Type III cloth in lieu of dyed, provided that the resultant blend will have appearance
characteristics equal to or better than that of the standard sample. Monotone shades regardless of
blend composition shall present a solid appearance with not more of a heathery appearance than
is displayed by the standard sample. When the Marine Corps Green 2241 for Type III is
specified, the cloth shall be produced by blending white stock with color stock to obtain the
shade and heather effect shown by the standard sample.
3.5.1 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the wool material, in accordance with MIL-C-43665,
shall be accomplished during stock, top, or piece dyeing as applicable (see 4.3.4).
3.5.2 Visual shade matching (all types and classes). The color and shade of the finished
cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9,
Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with
a color temperature of 7500 ± 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles and shall be a
good match to the standard sample under horizon lamplight at 2300 ± 200 K.
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